We track the west coast of South Australia, waiting for the WA border to open.

First the Yorke peninsula. The inland towns are small, sleepy and agricultural. We head down to the toe of the “boot”, to Marion Bay and the Pondalowie national park. There is lots of wildlife to encounter. Eleven emus walking down the road. A Peninsula Black Snake walks through our camp a couple of times, but doesn't seem too stressed. Another snorkel session with D2 brings us more rays to see.


Netx, up the west coast via Wallaroo, which is a Cornish tin mining town. Lots of history, but no mining now. Onwards through Port Augusta, which seems to be thriving, and hit the road to the Eyre peninsula. We are into some desert country now. The first leg takes us to Kimba, which has the best free, council run, overnighter camp site we have seen yet.

We decide to take back roads to the coast. Many are closed due to recent floods. After several diversions we get lunch at Darke Peak, which has a pub seemingly unchanged since the 1930s. The veal schnitty with mushroom sauce is great.

Tumby Bay is another small cute coastal town. More snorkeling on the jetty with D2. The local historical museum seems to collect entire deceased estates and business closure sales. The staff let us play music from a waxed cylinder, and operate the original town phone switchboard.

Tumby Bay

Another national parks campsite at Coffin Bay. I get the first scuba session of the trip. The shore dives are shallow, but with lots to see: nudibranchs, blue swimmer crabs, octopi. Once out of the water, I go to buy some local oysters. Outside the cafe is a 24 hour oyster vending machine! It talks to me in German for some reason. The oysters are delicious.

Oyster vending machine

Good news everyone! The WA border is now open! Ceduna is our last stop before crossing the Nullarbor. It definitely feels like a frontier town. We are recommended to take our time across the plain, so we stock up for a week.