More long distance driving across the Pilbara, firstly via Newman (which is a dump), Nullagine (which is hardly there at all) and Marble Bar (which is the hottest place in Australia, but bearable when we drop in).

Meentheena use to be a cattle station. When manganese mining started to the east, the road needed upgrading; apparently it was cheaper for the state to buy back the pastoral lease from the owners than to pay for a fence alongside the road. The station is currently leased by a veterans association, who are a fun bunch. We camp alongside the river, drive across the station to look at waterholes and fossils, and D2 wins a silly race held in lieu of the (cancelled) Marble Bar horse races. Other guests include mining surveyors, national parks staff and the aboriginal mob from up the coast. My guess is Meenthena will be a conservation reserve or national park fairly soon, with maybe a native title settlement also. If camping is allowed it will be quite different and somewhat restricted. We enjoy the place as it is for now.

…

We book in at the caravan park at Tom Price, for a car service (over 20,000 km already), driver service (I need physio on my gluteus media after all that driving), and restock of supplies. This is a mining town to the core, but is neat, clean and friendly, with a community feel, unlike some mining towns we pass through. There is another good library for the girls to finish some schoolwork.

…

We are firmly into the zone of big drives between destinations now. We follow the WA coast to the north-east, across the Tropic of Capricorn, with a couple of free overnight camps on the way. The skies are big and full of kites and eagles. Supply stop at Karratha, which is a minerals town (mining, gas plant). It seems modern and nicely kept, with a good shopping centre, a great library and a fantastic brunch in a Asian themed cafe. Drinking water costs money though.

…

After several months on the coast, it’s time to head inland again. Destination is Mount Augutus, which is bigger than Uluru (depending on your definition of “rock”, “monolith” or “inselberg”).

T needs more rocks (always!) so we stop at Gascoyne Junction where Mookaite is reported to be found. It would be pushing it to call this a town, but the locals are friendly, and the pub food good. The community focus (apart from the pub) is a combined council office / post office / museum / Medicare office / library. They kindly lend D2 some books for a couple of nights.

…

The coastline around Kalbarri has epic cliffs, and not much safe access to the sea except for the Murchison river. We camp by the river at the beautiful and rugged Murchison House Station. At 350,000 acres, this is twice the size of Singapore! It’s crisscrossed by 4WD tracks; the sharp limestone really gives our new tyres a serious workout but they hold up well.

Further up the river, in the National Park, we visit the Skywalk, which has steel platforms jutting out above the river gorge. I’m a bit skeptical about this kind of tourist infrastructure in the wilderness. What’s it really for? Who will maintain it in 20 years time? Still, it’s fun and the views are amazing.

…

We hit the road north from Perth, for several months exploring the WA coast and interior. This is a massive area; WA is the second biggest sub-national region in the world.

Sandy Cape is a beautiful arced bay, with bush camping alongside. This is a great spot to ease back into wilderness travel and long drives. The Pinnacles are a very interesting desert rock formation. Nobody seems to be exactly sure how they formed; maybe related to ancient trees, maybe not.

…

We treat ourselves to a week in the Margaret River. This is one for the grown-ups really. Sorry kids! Lamb feeding and free-range guinea pigs at the camp site slightly make up for it.

If you are not Australian, and don’t know about Margaret River wines, then you really should. It’s all class, no swill. Our highlight is a day’s minibus tour, with a really knowledgeable guide, interesting group, and some new wine styles we have never tried before.

…

Easter is an extended catch-up with our friends from Fremantle.

First, camping in the jarrah forest at Lane Poole, near Dwellingup. Lots of eating, drinking, tree climbing, four-wheel driving, kayaking and general relaxing.

Then to their holiday house at Yunderup. Even more relaxing, and good chance for some vehicle cleanup. The Easter bunny leaves a suitably large amount of chocolate.

Then to Fremantle. Metro Perth is our first big city since Adelaide, which seems like half a lifetime ago. The kids love the WA Museum. We love all the brewpubs and cycling on the foreshore. Perth is nice, but still feels like the edge of thw world, especially since the extended WA COVID lockout.

…

A relatively short drive back down to the coast, to another caravan park on the edge of Albany. it has good facilities and nice staff, but once again we are packed in like sardines. I have to move our car out off our site, just so someone else can park their caravan opposite.

Time to clean up and secure the camper trailer after a mini mouse plague (yuck). T hooks up with an old uni friend and her family, who are very welcoming. Great food and chat.

…

You know that feeling when you plan a trip just looking at marks on a map, and when you get there and actually see it, it is exceptional?

We stay at the Stirling Range Retreat, another low key bush campsite with good environmental credentials. The ranges would not look out of place on a Hebridean island. Apparently Australia does have some real mountains; who knew!

Mount Hassel, like most of the peaks, is short and sharp. D1 and I make the top. It’s a little too steep and exposed for D2 at the end, but she makes a valiant effort.

…