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The coastline around Kalbarri has epic cliffs, and not much safe access to the sea except for the Murchison river. We camp by the river at the beautiful and rugged Murchison House Station. At 350,000 acres, this is twice the size of Singapore! It's crisscrossed by 4WD tracks; the sharp limestone really gives our new tyres a serious workout but they hold up well.

Further up the river, in the National Park, we visit the Skywalk, which has steel platforms jutting out above the river gorge. I'm a bit skeptical about this kind of tourist infrastructure in the wilderness. What's it really for? Who will maintain it in 20 years time? Still, it's fun and the views are amazing.

Next stop up the road is Shark Bay. I finally get a dive trip in. The dive was shark free, but the skipper easily attracts some reef sharks by revving the engines and slapping the water with a line, pretending to be a fishing boat. On the cruise home, we see a fever of 30 manta rays, feeding on the surface. Next day, the tyres get an even harder workout, with a drive out to Steep Point, the most westerly point of the Australian mainland. It's all east from now on!